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Senior vs. Intermediate vs. Junior Hockey Sticks: How to Size Right Grab the wrong size stick and everything suffers — your reach, your shot, your puck control. Here's how to match the right stick category to the right player. The Three Categories at a Glance Category Typical Age Height Flex Range Junior 7–12 Under 5'2" 20–50 Intermediate 11–14 5'2"–5'7" 55–70 Senior 14+ 5'5"+ 75–110 Note: Age is a rough guide. Height and weight are more reliable. How to Check Stick Length Stand in your skates (or add ~1.5" if checking in shoes). Hold the stick straight up beside you: Chin to nose = ideal for most players Below chin = too short (limits reach and puck control) Above nose = too long (harder to stickhandle, slower release) Defensemen often prefer a slightly longer stick for reach and poke checks. Forwards often go slightly shorter for quicker hands. Weight Matters Too Flex and stick category are linked to weight, not just height. A tall but light 13-year-old might be better served by an intermediate stick even if their height suggests senior. Use the half-body-weight flex rule as a cross-check. Intermediate vs. Senior: The Grey Zone Players between 5'4"–5'7" and 130–160 lbs often fall between intermediate and senior. Here's how to decide: If you're still growing and your shot isn't fully developed → intermediate If you have a strong, developed shot and want more power → senior Many adult recreational players who are lighter or shorter prefer intermediate for the softer flex Junior Sizing: Don't Size Up Too Fast It's tempting to put a growing kid in a senior stick early. Resist it. A stick that's too stiff or too long will force bad habits — hunching over, muscling shots, poor puck control. Let them grow into the right size. Custom Sticks and Sizing One advantage of a custom stick is that you can dial in the exact length you want rather than cutting down a stock stick (which, remember, stiffens the flex). You specify the length, flex, and curve — and get a stick built for your body. → Use our Stick Guide to find your ideal specs, then build your custom stick with the exact length and flex you need.

Hockey Stick Curve Profiles Explained Walk into any pro shop and you'll see blade codes like P28, P92, P88 scattered across stick racks. Most players just grab what their favourite NHL player uses. That's not the worst strategy — but understanding what those curves actually do will help you make a smarter choice. The Three Things a Curve Affects Puck control — how the puck sits on your blade during stickhandling Shot trajectory — how high or low the puck naturally leaves your blade Backhand — how easy or hard it is to lift the puck on your off-hand side Breaking Down the Key Specs Every curve has three characteristics: Toe curve vs. mid curve vs. heel curve — where the bend starts along the blade Open face vs. closed face — the angle of the blade face at rest Depth — how dramatic the curve is (shallow, mid, deep) The Most Common Profiles NN28 (Toe curve, open face) The most popular curve in hockey right now. Deep toe curve with an open face. Great for toe drags, quick releases, and getting the puck off the ice fast. Backhands are harder. Used by players like McDavid and Matthews. Best for: Forwards who stickhandle a lot and want a high, quick release. NN92 (Mid curve, open face) A versatile all-around curve. More forgiving than the P28 on backhands while still giving you a good release. One of the most popular curves for recreational and beer league players. Best for: Players who want balance between shooting and puck control. NN88 (Mid curve, slightly closed face) A classic. Slightly more closed face than the P92, which helps keep shots lower. Better for players who want a harder, flatter shot. Best for: Defensemen and players who prefer a low, heavy shot. NN91 / NN02 Heel curve Less common but preferred by some playmakers. Heel curves give you a bigger “pocket” for receiving passes and make backhand passes easier. Shot trajectory tends to be lower. Best for: Playmakers and centers who prioritize passing and puck reception. Open vs. Closed Face: What It Means in Practice An open face naturally lifts the puck — great for getting it off the ice quickly, harder to keep shots low. A closed face does the opposite: easier to keep shots on the ice, harder to elevate quickly. Which Curve Should You Use? Want to dangle and score highlight goals? → NN28 Want a reliable all-around stick? → NN92 Play the point or want a heavy low shot? → NN88 Prioritize passing and playmaking? → Heel curve → Explore all available curves on our Find Your Curve page and build your custom stick.

How to Choose Your Hockey Stick FlexFlex is one of the most misunderstood specs on a hockey stick — and one of the most important. Get it wrong and you'll lose power on your shot. Get it right and the puck practically launches off the blade.Here's how to find yours.What Is Flex?Flex is a number that tells you how much force (in pounds) it takes to bend the stick one inch. A 75 flex stick requires 75 lbs of pressure to bend one inch. Lower number = more flex (softer). Higher number = less flex (stiffer).The General Rule: Half Your Body WeightThe most reliable starting point is to take your body weight in pounds and divide by two. 120 lbs → 60 flex 150 lbs → 75 flex 180 lbs → 90 flex 200+ lbs → 100 flex This is a starting point, not a rule. Your position and shot style matter too.Adjust for Position and Shot StyleGo softer if you: Rely on wrist shots and snap shots Play forward and want a quicker release Are newer to the game and still developing your shot Go stiffer if you: Shoot primarily slap shots Play defense and want more power on point shots Have a strong lower body and generate a lot of torque What About Cutting the Stick?Every inch you cut off the top of the shaft effectively increases the flex by about 3–5 points. If you order a 75 flex and cut 2 inches, you're playing closer to an 80–85. Factor this in before you order — especially on a custom stick where you're specifying exact length.Kids and Youth PlayersJunior sticks typically come in 30–50 flex. For young players, err on the softer side. A stick that's too stiff will cause them to compensate with poor mechanics just to load the shaft.Bottom LineStart with half your body weight, adjust one step softer if you're a forward who relies on quick releases, and remember that cutting the stick stiffens it. When in doubt, go slightly softer — it's easier to generate power with a whippy stick than to muscle through one that's too stiff.→ Ready to build yours? Find your flex on our custom stick builder.→ Not sure about sizing? Check our Stick Guide for a full breakdown.